Lesson 69-Drafting Bodice Pattern

Foundation Pattern-a perfectly plain pattern that fits an individual.
A. Bodice Pattern:
A-is the fundamental construction line.Square both ways from A.
B-from A is 2"
C-from B is 2"
D-from C is 3/4",the back seamline
E-from D is 3/4"
F-from B is 1/4" breast on the square plus 1/2 down
G-from B is the shirt length plus 1 1/2" shirt length allowance
H-from G is 3/4" for the front part.Connect all points.
I-from A is 1/6"neckline measurement on the square
J-from B is 1/2 shoulder measurement plus 1/2 for seam allowance.Connect J-I and draw a line downward to locate point K to on line E.
L-is a point formed by joining I-J-K to form a rectangle.Shape back neckline from I curving gently to B or use a french curve.
M-is a point on line D for the back pattern
N-is midway K-J
O-from F is 1/4 breast on the square
P-from is 2" for adults,1 1/2" for tapered shirts & 1 1/4" for children.Shape armhole from J curving slightly or use french curve to shape it.The front armhole is deeper by 3/8" than the back armhole.
Q-is a point squaring down from P
R-from H is 3/4",the overlay of the front part
S-from R is 3".Connect T-R.Shape front neckline from L-T.Finish the drafting as presented.
The front pattern,when finished,is made up of letters TELKOPQSHR.
T-the back part is made up of letters ERPQGF.The yoke pattern is made up of letters EKJIB.
B. Sleeve Pattern:
A-is the fundamental construction line.Square both ways from A
B-is the sleeve length.Add 1/2" for the hem allowance.
C-from A is 1/4 of the breast on the square less 1/2".Use the short arm.
D-from A is 1/2 armhole measurement.Armhole measurement can be taken from the draft bodice pattern.Connect D-A.
E-is the midway D-C.Square up to locate F intersecting line D-A.
G-from F is 3/4"
H-from D is 2"
I-from B is 1/2 of the sleeve width.Connect D-I.Check armhole measurement.The front armhole is deeper than the back armhole.
C. Collar Pattern-Sports or Convertible Collar:
A-starting point.Square both ways.
B-A-3 1/4".Square out from B
C-A-the length of the collar.Square up from C.
D-intersection of line B & line C.
BD-AC
G-D-1 1/4".Connect
E-C-3/8".Connect E & G with extension.
H-E-4"
F-center of distance A-C.Shape bottom of collar from F to E.
J-center of distance of B-G.Shape the upper portion of collar from I-H.
D. Neckline Pattern:
Find the length of the collar.Join shoulders of the front & back bodice pattern & take the neckline measurement.